13 November 2013

Beaufort, S.C.: The Quintessential Southern Town

JAMEYS POST:  

Sailing up the Atlantic coast from Florida or the Bahamas, square-rigged sailboats from the 16th century could pass just north of what is now Hilton Head Island and drop anchor in one of the deepest, most well-protected and most navigable natural harbors on the coast.  Known to early Spanish and French explorers since at least 1514, it was named Port Royal by the French explorer Jean Ribualt in 1562.  

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Location, location, location!!
Located northwest up the Beaufort River, the town of Beaufort is at the headwaters of the river on a high bluff overlooking the upper reaches of the river. The second oldest town in South Carolina, Beaufort was incorporated in 1711 as an outpost to fend off French and Spanish ships from the south as well as to establish trading with local indian tribes.   

Grown largely by slave labor on the surrounding sea islands, local crops started with indigo, a lucrative plant exported to the British, and later included "Carolina Gold" rice and then sea island cotton.  Beaufort flourished until the collapse of slavery with the Civil War. 

Nowadays, adults and children alike can play in the newly rebuilt Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park and let their eyes wander across the broad river. The play of wind and waves across the water surface are still restful to the eye, just as they must have been for native Yamasee hunters and for the Spanish, French, Welsh, Dutch and British explorers who all gazed out from this same high ground at their boats in the river below.

First explorers of the dock outside of our boat this morning found FROST on the dock surface, which was surprisingly slippery for Hawaiian girls. We spent this cold, sharply windy day walking around the small historic district, looking for parks to play in, gifts to send to friends, and any museums we could find to learn more about the history of this area. 

We spoke with a few people in town, and heard the term "quintessential southern town" used by most of them in describing Beaufort. 

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The park has a series of plaques that review Beaufort's history. They were well written and covered much of Beaufort's long and interesting history.
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It was so cold that Indigo had to warm up Nancy's shirt for Nancy by wearing it for a few minutes.

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C.Spirit, happily sheltered from last night's big winds.
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We have never before worn this much clothing!
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Happy face boat in a sad place. 

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It was about a mile walk into Beaufort from the marina. 
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This small curvature is enough to allow the bridge to swing open.

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Even the playground exudes "quintessential southern-ness."


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Diorama of the original town.


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Gold leaf-plated keel.  That should keep off the barnacles!


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Town map. 

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Beaufort has a lot of beautiful art galleries and tons of small businesses.  Starbucks lost a three year fight to open up here.  Some believe Beaufort's tight restrictions are wonderful, a necessity to preventing it from becoming homogenous strip-mall America.  We spoke with a couple of people that voiced frustrations and spoke of how many businesses are struggling in Beaufort.   


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Henry


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Secret stairs at the marina lead up to a beautiful yoga studio.


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Every set of stairs should have positive messages -- always a step closer to enlightenment.

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A rare treat -- dinner out at The Dockside Restaurant.  Fresh seafood while looking at C.Spirit out the window.  Copious amounts of southern-style cornbread and breadsticks!


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Oysters Rockefeller

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WHERE WE STARTED:  Docked in Lady's Island Marina, Factory Creek Near Beaufort SC, Mile 636.

WHERE WE ARE:  We stayed still, too much wind and cold. 

THERE TO HERE: 0 miles! 



The norther brought big winds.  We were well tucked in at Lady's Island Marina. 

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